South Central British Columbia

For all of these areas; Black Bears - and in some cases Grizzly Bears - are common; be bear aware. For information on bears in a specific area, contact park staff. For general guidelines on bear safety, visit the Parks Canada 'You Are in Bear Country' page at: http://www.parkscanada.gc.ca/docs/pc/guide/nature/nature02_e.asp.

Cathedral Provincial Park

This very beautiful park is near Keremeos. This park has particularly interesting rock formations in the area above Cathedral Lakes (including: Smokey the Bear, The Devils Wood Pile and the Giant Cleft). The trailhead is somewhat isolated and is accessed by road (paved and gravel) east of Keremeos. A private lodge is located near the campsite at Cathedral Lakes. Lodge staff object to hikers using the road; which is very steep. The alternative trail is also very steep.

Temperatures can be in excess of forty degrees (40) Celsius at the trailhead. Rattlesnakes are known to be in the area, especially at lower elevations. Beware of thefts from vehicles parked at the trailhead. If you are to use the transportation available from the private lodge, RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED. For more information on available transportation [i.e. rates, schedules, reservations, etc.] contact Cathedral Lakes Lodge at: Phone 250-226-7560, Fax: 250-226-7528.

Beware that weather conditions can change VERY quickly and drastically in this park. It can snow at ANY TIME; be equipped and prepared for winter conditions on any trips into this park. If all of this hasn't scared you away, you will find the park very much worth the visit.

Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park

This park is near Nelson and is located between Kootenay Lake and Slocan Lake in the Kootenays. The park can be accessed from several points but the most commonly used access is the road to Gibson Lake from the highway near Kokanee Creek Provincial Park. The park can also be accessed from the Slocan Valley to the east and near Kaslo to the north.

From the trailhead at Gibson Lake (NOTE: Contact BC Parks about possible precautions if leaving your vehicle here. In the past there has been problems with porcupines, they find rubber - as used on tires, radiator hoses, brake lines, etc. - quite edible.) a good trail climbs to Kokanee Pass and Kokanee Lake. A terraced trail makes its way through the boulder field south of Kokanee Lake. The trail continues from here to several destinations including the historic Slocan Chief Cabin.

Please note that Grizzly Bears live in the Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park area.

Columbia and Western Railway

While most of the potential Expedition sites described on these pages are best suited to backpacking (or for the more adventurous; snowshoes or skis), this former railway is well suited to mountain bikes. While this route could be walked with a pack or ridden on a horse, the mountain bike is the best fit. Road bikes - and even many 'hybrid' bikes - are not suitable for use on this route. While it is now a mostly flat, fairly smooth rail bed with rails and tracks removed; a mountain bike will be best. Don't forget your helmet!

The Columbia and Western Railway extends from Castlegar to Midway. The entire - one-way - route is about 162 kilometers in length and will take several days to ride if followed from start to finish. Unlike riding a bicycle on paved roads, the kilometers that can be covered by a loaded mountain bike on a dirt rail bed are less. When I did this route - at a relaxed pace - it took four days to travel the distance one way. One big advantage of following a former railway is that there are no steep hills as on roads; trains could not climb steep hills so they had to be built at 'railway grade'.

[At the time this information was prepared (February 2000), it was proposed that the former Columbia and Western Railway from Christina Lake to the western end of the line at Midway become part of the Trans Canada Trail. As part of the Trans Canada Trail and the interconnecting trails and cycle routes that are proposed, this will provide a very large variety of potential Expedition routes. For further information, visit the Trans Canada Trail home page at: http://www.tctrail.ca/ or the BC Trans Canada Trail home page at: http://www.luco.gov.bc.ca/trancan/home2.htm .

It is also proposed that a large part of the former Kettle Valley Railway - starts at Midway - be included as part of the Trans Canada Trail. As proposed, this would extend from the eastern railway terminus at Midway west to Brodie (near Brookmere on the Kettle Valley Railway). Information on cycling the Kettle Valley Railway is also included at this web site.]

One note; if you or any of those accompanying you along the railway have problems with heights or enclosed spaces, there are several high trestles that must be crossed and several tunnels that must be passed through.

With a start in Castlegar, you will have to ride either:

1. The paved road along the north side of the Columbia River via Robson to the Hugh Keenleyside Dam. Cross the dam and the rail bed extends west along the south side of Lower Arrow Lake (this is the recommended route).
2. The paved road from Castlegar along the south side of the Columbia River until you reach the Hugh Keenleyside Dam. Continue west (do not cross dam) on the rail bed along the south side of Lower Arrow Lake.

Note that the rail bed - especially close to the dam - has a fair amount of loose gravel and you will have to keep your eyes on the rail bed. As you continue west and gradually climb above Lower Arrow Lake, the rail bed and the views will improve. You will also cross over several railway trestles along the way; for safety, ALWAYS push your bicycle across these and DO NOT ride your bike on trestles.

One possible stop for an overnight camp is at the west end of the Bulldog Tunnel (about 30 kilometres from the Hugh Keenleyside Dam). At this point there is a wide flat area with room for many tents. Water can usually be obtained at the east end of the tunnel. This tunnel is fairly long [about a kilometer] and - as with several of the tunnels on the railway - a light is recommended.

The rail bed climbs from Castlegar to Farron, a few kilometers beyond the Bulldog tunnel. As mentioned, it is a gradual climb but it is still a climb. There are several other potential campsites along the rail bed from this point and a stream for water.

Once Farron is reached, it is downhill almost all the way to the Chirstina Lake area: about 30 kilometres of downhill riding. Farron is marked by the remains of an old concrete railway diesel fuel tank along side the rail bed.

[If a vehicle is supporting your trip, the west end of the Bulldog Tunnel can be reached. Forestry roads leave Highway 3 and meet the rail bed. Contact the BC Forest Service for details of road conditions in the area before planning your trip around vehicle access.]

Be sure to look up at the Paulson Bridge as you cruise downhill towards Christina Lake and admire the views of Christina Lake from the rail bed. If you will be staying at Christina Lake, it is recommended that you leave the rail bed at Fife. As you approach Fife, there is a large wooden tower left over from a mine and a small railway building at the left side of the rail bed. [Near where the railway meets the paved road at Fife, there are Buffalo in a nearby field. Have your camera handy.] To reach Christina Lake, turn downhill (right) from the rail bed and follow the road until you reach Highway 3 at the bottom of the hill.

As an alternative, you can continue along the rail bed from Fife until you reach the next paved road: Santa Rosa Road (there are several good views of Christina Lake). To reach Christina Lake, turn right (downhill) when you reach Santa Rosa Road (this is the recommended route to reach the rail bed from Christina Lake as well).

As you leave the Christina Lake area, the railway will cross the Kettle River (a long bridge to walk your bike across), pass near Kettle Falls on the Kettle River and then follow Highway 3 into Grand Forks. The rail bed for much of the way to Grand Forks after the Kettle River can be fairly overgrown with weeds. It may be easier - for some sections - to ride along the highway.

Grand Forks is worth a visit. There is a strong Russian influence in this area from early settlers and several old building in the town center. If you are not yet tired of riding your bike, there are many good shorter rides in the area. You may also notice the Columbia and Western Railway Station is now a neighborhood pub. You will pass it as you head out of town towards Greenwood on the rail bed.

The railway leaves Grand Forks by climbing north along the valley of the Granby River. The views from the railway of the valley are very good. Eventually the railway will turn west out of the valley towards Greenwood. Several kilometers of this section are also used as a forestry / logging road; use caution. As well, there are some areas that can be sandy and hard to ride through.

The City of Greenwood (became at city in 1897 - now has a small population) was recently restored for the filming of the movie "Snow Falling on Cedars". As with many of the towns in this area, this town was a victim of the boom and bust cycle that accompanied mining, especially at the turn of the last century.

The ride from Greenwood to Midway - end of the Columbia and Western Railway - is for the most part a fast down hill ride. When you reach Midway, be sure to visit the local museum as it has a great deal of information about the area and the railway.

While Midway does mark the end of the Columbia and Western Railway, it also marks the beginning of the Kettle Valley Railway. If you want to keep riding, read on.

Kettle Valley Railway

While most of the potential Expedition sites described on these pages are best suited to backpacking (or for the more adventurous; snowshoes or skis), this former railway is well suited to mountain bikes. While this route could be walked with a pack or ridden on a horse, the mountain bike is the best fit. Road bikes - and even many 'hybrid' bikes - are not suitable for use on this route. While it is now a mostly flat, fairly smooth rail bed with rails and tracks removed; a mountain bike will be best. Don't forget your helmet!

Technically, the Kettle Valley Railway (KVR) extends from Midway to Hope but, the rail bed is only really useable - for the most part - until Brookmere. Brookmere is just east of the Coquihalla Highway. This description will cover - briefly - the route from Midway to Princeton. The entire distance from Midway to Princeton - one way - on the rail bed is about 328 kilometers in length and will take several days to ride if followed from start to finish. Unlike riding a bicycle on paved roads, the kilometers that can be covered by a loaded mountain bike on a dirt rail bed are less. When I did this route - at a relaxed pace - it took five days to travel the distance one way. One big advantage of following a former railway is that there are no steep hills, as on roads, trains could not climb steep hills so they had to be built at 'railway grade'.

[At the time this information was prepared (February 2000), it was proposed that the former Kettle Valley Railway from Midway to Brodie - near Brookmere - become part of the Trans Canada Trail. As part of the Trans Canada Trail and the interconnecting trails and cycle routes that are proposed, this will provide a very large variety of potential Expedition routes. For further information, visit the Trans Canada Trail home page at: http://www.tctrail.ca/ or the BC Trans Canada Trail home page at: http://www.luco.gov.bc.ca/trancan/home2.htm .

It is also proposed that a large part of the former Columbia and Western Railway - ends at Midway - be included as part of the Trans Canada Trail. As proposed, this would extend from the eastern railway terminus at Midway west to Brodie (near Brookmere). Information on cycling the Columbia and Western Railway is also included at this web site.]

One note; if you or any of those accompanying you along the railway have problems with heights or enclosed spaces, there are several high trestles that must be crossed and several tunnels that must be passed through.

Starting at Midway, follow the rail bed west. For some portions of the rail bed [ especially until you reach Rock Creek and often between Rock Creek (approximately to just beyond Rhone) and Beaverdell ] it will be necessary to bypass the rail bed and ride on the nearby paved road or highway. Use caution.

When you reach Rhone, one of the local residents has built a World War II memorial complete with a rest stop and shelter for those cycling the KVR. Water is available at the shelter and a hammock for tired cyclists.

It is possible to return to the rail bed just beyond Rhone and stay on it almost entirely until you reach Beaverdell. Between Rhone and Beaverdell there are several potential campsites along the rail bed. While there is no public campsite in Beaverdell, some of the local residents do allow cyclists to camp on their property. You may try asking at one of the local businesses about this if you will be staying in the area.

The rail bed continues from Beaverdell passing Carmi (there are still a few old buildings and some foundations). Beyond Carmi you will either have to ford Wilkinson Creek (easy when water levels are low). If you do not wish to do this, it is possible to bypass the creek crossing via forestry roads, the highway and a path. Beyond here you will pass Arlington Lakes (a Forest Service campsite is here that is suitable for lunch or overnight - accessible by vehicles. Fees are now required to stay in Forest Service campgrounds. As an alternative to nightly fees, annual passes can also be purchased. Contact the Forest Service at http://www.for.gov.bc.ca/ ).

The next major landmark on the KVR is Hydraulic Lake (sometimes referred to as McCulloch Lake - named after the engineer who supervised construction of the KVR). A resort and campground - private - is located here. This is a good place to camp (showers are available), a fee is charged for camping by the resort.

Myra Canyon is only a few hours cycling from Hydraulic Lake. This is perhaps the most famous section of the KVR with its 18 trestles and a tunnel. The trestles on most of this part of the rail bed have been restored by local community groups (i.e. The Myra Canyon Trestle Restoration Society). Most trestles here have planks placed over the railway ties and handrails installed. This area of the KVR is very scenic, be sure to allow lots of time and bring lots of film for this area.

Beyond Myra Canyon the next significant landmark is Chute Lake and Chute Lake Lodge. The lodge has a private campsite (Note: there is also a Forest Service campsite at one end of Chute Lake.). This is a good place to stop as the next day will take you into Penticton and the Okanagan Valley.

The ride from Chute Lake towards Penticton starts out flat but, then begins a long gradual descent into the valley. You will have to make one detour from the rail bed near the start of the descent. The Adra Tunnel is not passable and has been blocked with large concrete blocks. Bikes can be ridden - carefully - or pushed on a trail that bypasses the tunnel and meets the rail bed again when past the tunnel.

The views as you descend into Penticton are breathtaking. If you look very carefully across Okanagan Lake, you can see the KVR on the other side. Look for the KVR Trout Creek Bridge as it stands out.

As you enter the outskirts of Penticton, it will be necessary to leave the rail bed more and more as you get closer to the city. Penticton is worth a visit, it is one of the largest centers in the Okanagan.

The rail bed virtually disappears in downtown Penticton but, starts again on the west side of the Okanagan River Channel. From the west side of the channel, the KVR gradually climbs along the west side of Okanagan Lake passing above Summerland. Established campsites in this area are few but, there is a private campground or two in Summerland. Note that it is a LONG descent from the rail bed behind Summerland to Okanagan Lake.

A short section of the KVR at Summerland has been kept in 'working' condition. During the summer, a steam engine takes passengers cars along the section from West Summerland Station to Faulder. If you are in the area when the train is in operation, it is a worthwhile stop.

To avoid this section of railway, follow paved roads to Faulder. There is one steep hill that will have to be climbed between West Summerland Station and Faulder that IS NOT railway grade (very steep and fairly long). Once you reach Faulder, the rail bed can be ridden by bicycle again.

From Faulder, the KVR follows Trout Creek towards Osprey Lake and Princeton. Note that you will have to ford Trout Creek at one point where the original railway bridge has been removed. As you approach this crossing from Faulder, there will be several dirt mounds and ditches just before you must descent to Trout Creek. The descent to Trout Creek is very steep (and slippery if wet). You WILL NOT be able to cycle down the trail to Trout Creek. If you are carrying camping equipment (etc.) on your bicycle, it will be necessary to remove it to lighten your bike for the descent to the creek. Use extreme care crossing the creek. This creek is fairly large but, can be safely forded when water levels are low if care is taken.

Once the creek is crossed, you will have to carry and push your bike to the rail bed. On the bright side, the west side of the creek does have an area that could be a good campsite.

After fording Trout Creek the rail bed continues climbing and does so until Osprey Lake. Note that the bridge at Kathleen Creek has also been removed (west of Thirsk Lake) but, can be easily detoured around using trails and the Forestry Road. Thirsk Lake has a Forest Service Campground - accessible by vehicles.

A long, low trestle marks the KVR's approach to Osprey Lake. Osprey Lake is the highest point on the KVR between Penticton and Princeton. There are several campsites (including a few Forest Service Campsites) near Osprey Lake and another one at Chain Lake.

From the area of Osprey and Chain Lakes, the railway is relatively flat for several kilometers before making the descent to Princeton. Along part of this section someone has installed picnic tables occasionally as well. This is a beautiful ride into the valley as the forest opens up revealing rangeland and you can glide along for much of the way as the KVR descends at railway grade. Watch for cattle on the rail bed.

When you are at the valley bottom nearing Princeton, you should leave the rail bed where the paved road to the sawmill meets the road to Summerland. From here it is a short ride on pavement down the hill and across the Tulameen River into Princeton.